Having been slow-cooked for a day, the meat had a texture that contrasted with bracing horseradish, crisp sunchokes, and dots of black-garlic purée.
The gamay’s earthy flavor and light body grooved with both the smoked-onion broth surrounding a flaky black cod fillet and a tender “six day” brisket, which chef Trae Basore - who replaced opening toque Richard Kuo last October - brines for five days in pink and white salts, white and brown sugars, honey, ginger, garlic, fresno chiles, jalapeños, basil, and mint. Rebelle, newly opened on the Bowery, has an effortless, new wave, French bistro thing going on that could easily make it blur into all of the other Francophile restaurants currently big on duck a. He favors natural wines, grower Champagnes, and other offbeat sparklers and often dons sleeve-tattoo-baring T-shirts or lumberjack plaids while sabering bubbly to rousing applause.Īt Pearl & Ash, Birkhahn set us straight with an acidic and minerally grüner veltliner, as well as a blissfully fruity herbal gamay from Rhône producer Hervé Souhaut ($30 retail) for $58 - a downright compassionate markup. Her mentor, wine director Patrick Cappiello, wears the same hat next door at Rebelle (218 Bowery, 91), the modern French sibling spot he likewise co-owns with Branden McRill and hotelier Alessandro Zampedri (whose budget-chic Bowery House hotel sits atop the two restaurants). And, on Monday, Rebelle will finally make its debut in a big industrial-inspired space on the Bowery, just next door to their wine hotspot Pearl & Ash. The 1,500-bottle-deep wine list quickly attracted wine snobs and industry professionals, and Times critic Pete Wells gave the restaurant two stars shortly after the restaurant opened, though he. Prince and Spring Sts., 91 Like this: Loading. Patient and well-intentioned, head sommelier Bryn Birkhahn discussed with us the quirky delights of different varietals with the same effervescence as the pét-nat - an of-the-moment style of unfiltered sparkling wine - she peddles. As a line cook, Eddy, a New York native, found himself hard-pressed to afford the crazy expensive dishes at Manhattan’s Michelin-starred French restaurants so no dish on his menu exceeds 26 and most are under 15. “Is it, like, chewiness?” another one chimed in. “I think it’s a texture thing,” someone else in our party offered up.
One night, after we’d spent some time poring over Pearl & Ash’s (220 Bowery, 21) nearly 2,000-bottle inventory, my tablemate huffed under his breath, “Why would anyone want a waxy wine?” Slices of wagyu steak perch next to a bright-green, and bright-tasting, broccoli purée, and black-vinegar-brined.
Keep in mind, the team plans to regularly update both the food and beverage options.Six-day brisket with horseradish, sunchokes, and black garlic (Pearl & Ash) Bradley Hawks Malty black bread with cultured butter goes for 6, or 23 with sturgeon caviar. For those who really crave a cocktail, there's a small drinks menu including French classics like a French 75 and a Kir Normand, and a bar menu of a foie gras torchon, fried pig's head, and anchovies to go with it.Ĭheck out the opening menus below. It's all designed to pair well with Cappiello's 81 page wine opus, which boasts 1,500 French and American varieties, ranging from a bargain $28 aligote from Washington to a trophy $6995 Montrachet, Grand Cru from 1989. In April 2015, Branden opened Rebelle with Patrick and chef Daniel Eddy, formerly of Spring in Paris, near Pearl & Ash on the Bowery. Daniel Eddy, of Paris's much lauded Spring restaurant is running the kitchen here, offering a modern French menu with some American touches like chicken with potato, sorrel, and lemon preserve and duck breast with endive, orange, and smoked almonds. The Menu: It's "a French restaurant run by American kids," Cappiello told Eater last week. The pair took over the enormous old R Bar space, ridding it of its stripper poles and red leather walls and giving it an industrial makeover with the help of interior design team of the moment hOme, which also designed Torst, Threes Brewing, and Black Seed. Przegld Ceny Recenzje Specyfikacje + Dodaj do porównania. Now a chef who ran its kitchen, Daniel Eddy, has come home to his native New York. Przekonaj si, który jest lepszy i jaka jest jego pozycja w rankingu suchawki. Bowery princes Branden McRill and Patrick Cappiello of Pearl & Ash are debuting their new wine-focused French restaurant Rebelle right next door tonight. Jaka jest rónica pomidzy House of Marley Rebel BT i LSTN Bowerys.